My heart still skips a beat when I think of “Surfers” and so many memories came flooding back from childhood staying at Pacific Point or the Golden Gate through to spending schoolies there with a group of friends back in 1987. Where did all that time go and how did I end up back at Surfers in my 50’s feeling like a 21 year old but rapidly heading for dinosaur status? I have no idea. Happened in the blinking of an eye!
While this account of Surfers Paradise from 1938 is well before my time, it captures much of the vibe I knew so well in the 1970’s and 1980’s:
“SURFERS’ PARADISE …. The very name fires the imagination. It suggests the high-powered publicity of the Americans. One immediately thinks of some flambuoyantly picturesque spot in California or Florida. True, this newest of the south coast colonies has a touch of the rococo about it. But there is no garishness. The place suggests youth; smart little houses, gay colours, attractive gardens. There is an air of impudence without pertness, of happiness without heartiness. Surfers’ Paradise grew from a waste of sand hills. Many of us can remember when the place was called Myers’ Ferry, and a handful of hardy campers stayed there; scorning the more crowded beaches. These pioneers were always loud in praise of the surf on their quiet beach. In the past few years, thousands of bathers have endorsed their opinion. Considering that it is part of a long straight stretch of foreshore, Surfers’ Paradise finds itself remarkably free from the channel formations other beaches experience. It misses, too, much of the sidesweep generally found at exposed beaches. Its surf may be said to alternate between extremes. When it is flat, it is very flat, with waves breaking in anaemic style near the beach. But on a good day, the surf breaks a hundred yards out and more — full-blooded lusty combers that take some holding, but give a swift and thrilling ride to the beach. Providing, of course, you can hold a ‘shoot’ that long. Surfers’ Paradise is the bright child of seaside resorts; precocious yet charming, and assured of a glorious inheritance. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld. : 1929 – 1954), Friday 14 January 1938, page 5
Such glowing praise, but when you look at the photo, it doesn’t seem to measure up. .
Of course, I couldn’t wait to get down to the beach, especially after spending yesterday stuck in the car all day. However, Geoff insisted on going to the supermarket first. What the heck?!! What was this responsible adulting when we were on holidays and supposedly fancy-free? Naturally, the last thing I wanted to see was a shopping trolley when we could be prancing up and down the mythical white sands of paradise. Yet, to be fair, it was Easter Thursday and the shops were going to be shut on Good Friday. So, we like everyone else, needed to load up our trolleys like doomsday preppers or we’d starve.
Shopping stashed away, we were off.
Depending on the traffic, Surfers Paradise can be a 15 minute drive from “home” in Southport. However, instead of driving direct to Main Beach and Cavill Avenue as expected, Geoff took a left and was heading North to regions unknown. I wasn’t happy at first, but once again he had a good idea and he was running with it. He knew this spot out past Sea World called The Spit, which has magnificent views down to Surfers, Coolangatta and possibly beyond. I was impressed, even if I was busting a gut to get back to Surfers Paradise and relive my memories as best I could given how much water had flowed under the bridge. As much as Surfers Paradise wasn’t what it was 30+ years ago, neither was I.
Yet, as much as I am in love with the legend that is Surfers Paradise and have such incredible memories, I am not a huge fan of modern Surfers Paradise and find it too built up and rather tired. I don’t know if the Surfers Paradise high rises are more appealing from the inside looking out, but they cast ugly shadows on the beach in the late afternoon and really detracted from enjoyment. Yet, I loved staying in a high rise when I was younger and going swimming in the pool downstairs and crossing the road to the beach. I wasn’t thinking about getting back to nature then, and Surfers Paradise was so much fun.
After visiting the beach and getting our feet wet, we walked around the block and had churros for afternoon tea at San Churros. Yum! We also found a Build-a-Bear shop and had a look. Our daughter loves them and it just didn’t seem right that she wasn’t with us. Ditto for our son. We might’ve gone away for a few days to Bathurst last year without them, but this was four weeks and we’ve always been on family holidays before.
All in all, we had a wonderful time, despite going to the supermarket.
Have you been to Surfers Paradise and do you have any memories or reflections you’d like to share? I look forward to hearing from you!
Best wishes,
Rowena
Beyond the Flow 